We’ve been in Egypt almost two weeks. I think I’m finally over the jet lag from the trip here… lolol.
Seriously, the flights that brought us from Thailand to Cairo were our most insane itinerary ever – and included layovers in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and Chengdu, China.
It all began shortly after we arrived in Malaysia in early January when we noticed a cheap, overnight, May 14-flight on Skyscanner from Kuala Lumpur to Cairo. The $575 price, including checked bags, for two people on Sichuan Airways (a Chengdu based Chinese carrier), was hundreds of dollars less than any other option. We grabbed it. No changes or refunds allowed.
The flight included a 21-hour layover in Chengdu. As constant explorers, we would have liked to visit China longer (U.S. passport holders can stay up to 240 hours under the newly expanded Chinese ‘visa free transit’ policy). But booking separate flights negated the good airfare price. We stuck with the long, one-day layover tickets.
So what’s to do in Chengdu, China anyway? Actually, plenty I’m sure. Chengdu is China’s fourth largest city: population, well over 20 million! But for us, the one thing of particular interest was the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding.
That’s right. Chengdu is where the world’s panda bears are from. In fact, Giant Pandas are only found in the wild in six isolated mountain ranges in Central China. And the Chengdu Panda Base serves as the best known conservation center for the creatures. The pandas displayed at zoos around the world are managed and ‘shared’ by the Chengdu Panda Research Base.
Our plan: sleep on the overnight flight from KLU, get an ‘Uber’ car after our 6:00 a.m. Chengdu arrival directly to the Panda Base, beat the daily crowds, and enjoy a half-day touring and observing these rare bears (and red pandas too, which are also there).
After the pandas, we’d do a little more Chengdu sightseeing via Uber (DiDi Chuxing in China), get some dinner, then snooze for a while back at the TFU airport and on our 1:00 a.m., onward, overnight connecting flight to Cairo, Egypt. (No need to collect our checked bags – Sichuan air would hold and put them through.)
It all sounded kinda fun at the time of booking – and a way to see many of these rare creatures. (There are approximately 1,850 Giant Pandas alive today; up from 1,100 in 1980 thanks to the Chengdu Panda Base.)
But that was BEFORE we decided to spend a month on the beach in Hua Hin, Thailand (another cheap flight from KL). The Hua Hin trip meant we’d first have to fly back to KLU to start the China to Egypt trip. It added another 10 hours of travel: first Hua Hin to Bangkok by bus, then a flight from Bangkok to KLU, plus extra layover time.
In the end, we were pretty exhausted when we did arrive in Chengdu. Neither of us slept much between Bangkok and KL, or KL and Chengdu.
Next, the DiDi rideshare app that I had downloaded before we began didn’t work in China! Yup. The app that is currently available is only for ‘other’ DiDi markets in Central and South America and Asia Pacific countries. Apparently the app for use IN China has been suspended by regulators. It still works for those who have it, but new downloads are next to impossible. (DiDi also works inside other Chinese ‘super apps’ which we don’t have.)
Anyway, in a sleepy haze at the Chengdu (TFA) Airport we found out that DiDi would not be an option for our day in Chengdu. Uhhhggg! We bargained as best we could at the airport for taxi transport to the Panda Base. Final cost; 200 yuan ($29) for the 1-hour ride.
We arrived at the Panda Base around 8:30 a.m. More confusion. First, hardly any English is spoken. Makes sense – it’s central China. Next, although I had pre-purchase entrance tickets through an online travel agency (and paid almost double the $8 regular price), the people at the gate launched into an effort to get my ticket cost refunded because anyone over 60 is free (a senior citizen perk).
I bought the tickets knowing this. But I did not want to risk being turned away if the maximum number of daily visitors was met. The kindly gate folks couldn’t understand this explanation — at least a half hour was wasted before we could just get into the park. No refund needed or wanted. (Incidentally, it seems unlikely that the place is ever ‘full’, especially early in the morn; maybe only on holidays or in summer season.)
Thankfully, once inside, our day went pretty well. To be sure, we were dragging and cranky from lack of sleep and the travel obstacles, but the animal park itself was great. The place is HUGE! The various enclosures and exhibits are spread over three square kilometers. A lot of walking is involved (electric golf cart-type trams are available too, with waiting lines). The facility is gorgeous, state-of-the-art, a very spacious and modern ‘zoo’ kind of atmosphere.
And the animals: Wow! Feedings begin first thing in the morning. The animals are active and (mostly) outdoors at that time. As the day heats up, they come inside to their cool, climate controlled quarters. Watching them gorge themselves on fresh bamboo was a hoot. Honestly, I’ve never seen animals that look so fat and spoiled anywhere. They literally lay there peeling and feasting on the fresh bamboo shoots. When they’ve had their fill, they basically pass out and sleep the day away.
Actually – as explained in signage (both Chinese and English) – Giant Pandas have very short digestive tracts for mammals. They must eat a lot – because they get relatively little nutrition from their bamboo diet. Consequently, they lounge around not because they are lazy, but because they are constantly conserving energy. It’s part of the reason they are such a fragile species. Seeking food in the wild, can put their nutrition/energy expenditure ratio out of whack.
In any case, we spent the next four hours plus observing dozens of different panda bears of all sizes, sexes, and ages. Although kept 3-4 per pen, they are relatively individualistic. Only the younger ones really interact with each other — often wrestling and rolling around. In fact, the adults are so sedentary that the fur on their backsides is permanently matted and stained — almost like bedsores! It’s like the only activity they engage in is EATING! Of course, they each have slightly different body colorings and eye ‘patches’ and ‘personalities’.
In all, it was a neat experience — even in a no-sleep funk. Plus, the Panda Base also houses and displays Red Pandas — which are a very distantly related, non-bear species, and also endemic to central China (and Nepal, Bhutan, and Myanmar). The Red Pandas are much smaller and seem far less glutinous — more like raccoons actually.
By the end of our visit, Giant and Red pandas felt completely common and unremarkable. They were everywhere. Only afterward, does it again strike you what a special and important place the Panda Research and Breeding Base is (and the few other smaller nearby Chinese Giant Panda conservation centers.)
After wrapping up our visit, we again struggled with language and transport issues. We had exchanged $50 into Chinese Yuan upon arrival at the airport — so we did have cash for cabs and some Chengdu Metro rides and food. Amusingly, we ended up at a Dominoes Pizza with an outdoor terrace before we took the subway back to the airport. In total, we saw maybe 2 or 3 other westerners during our day in Chengdu, and English communication was basically impossible.
Bottom line, the Chengdu Panda Base is certainly a world-class operation and key to the survival of these unique bears. It’s definitely worth a visit — just be aware of the issues involved. Still, for under $100 in total, a couple could make a ‘layover visit’ from the airport just like we did — and hopefully avoid the hassles with the info provided above.
Once on the second leg of our flight, both my wife and I crashed out. Some nine hours later we awoke on final approach to Cairo, Egypt.
One last hassle; my rolling suitcase came down the baggage conveyor covered in clear tape – the contents bulging out. Apparently someone in China searched the bag for whatever reason and couldn’t get it repacked. The contents had been rifled, but everything was there. The bag itself turned out to be undamaged – but it took some time at baggage claim to determine that.
After clearing immigration at about 8:30 a.m., we successfully ordered an Uber car and went directly from CAI airport to the old Egyptian Museum (the King Tut museum, built in 1909).
It was far too early to check into our Cairo/Giza Airbnb, so we stashed our repacked luggage at the museum ‘cloak room’ for a few bucks and spent hours at another world famous attraction. This time we actually felt OK since we did get some rest on the flight.
All in all, while we managed to execute the plan, and see the pandas, it wasn’t easy or particularly enjoyable. In retrospect, adding the Hua Hin/ Bangkok part on top of two consecutive scheduled overnight flights was probably unwise.
We do usually try to minimize our air travel. Our slow travel style works better without it. We’ve certainly never had a schedule like this one. And no matter the bargain price – or the potential layover sights – we’re gonna try not to expose ourselves to such an insane itinerary again.
As always, be thankful and generous. Happy trails & more beer.
Life is NOW!
Thanks for reading, “Our most insane itinerary ever.”
About Theo
Theo (also called Tedly) retired early from the news business to wander the planet with his wife, Ellen. He enjoys exploring all Earth has to offer from jungles and beaches to volcanoes and deserts, always drinking beer along the way.