A revelation in Budapest

We’ve been in Budapest, Hungary for two weeks. The culture shock is finally wearing off.

Seriously, after living on tropical beachfronts in Southeast Asia for most of this year, Hungary is literally a ‘breath of fresh air”.

The month we spent in scorching hot desert Egypt – from where we flew to Budapest – further magnifies the differences.

It’s so fresh and green and fragrant here! (Honestly, I have a horrible sense of smell, but my wife marvels at the springtime scents every day.) It IS springtime – now barely summer – in Central Europe. Amazing!

Two years ago, we experienced the same thing. At that time we went from the United Arab Emirates (UAE) to Serbia, Romania, and Bulgaria for the summer. (Wizz Air offers super cheap flights between these places.)

Similarly, Budapest is loaded with manicured parks and museums and churches and fountains and castles and statues and alfresco cafés and sausages and public-transit and women showing skin. Temperatures thus far have barely reached the 80s F with low humidity (hotter weather is in forecast). Delightful.

It’s the complete opposite of our stays in Malaysia, Indonesia, Egypt, and even Thailand; where things are ‘developing’ nicely but are nowhere near as refined or civilized, temperatures are oppressive, and women are covered head to toe even when swimming in accord with their Muslim faith. (Thailand is Buddhist, and there are ‘exposed’ tourists, but locals usually cover up against sun exposure.)

Budapest does remind me of Belgrade, Serbia – a lot! And Bucharest, Romania too, where we lived for a month in 2023. But honestly, Budapest is nicer. In my opinion, it feels more cosmopolitan, more alive, more progressive – if that can be said about any former communist country. It’s a little more expensive here too – though admittedly, the 2023 visit was closer to ‘Covid time’ before inflation spiked up worldwide.

We’re again loving our location: a few blocks from the Danube River and the iconic Hungarian Parliament building — walking distance from most everything (we had similar East EU accommodations in 2023 – and in Croatia, Bosnia, and Montenegro in 2018). Once again, it feels comfortable, natural, almost like I ‘belong’ here. There is a subtle familiarity about the place, seasons, people look like me – and seem pragmatic and unpretentious, the food is all recognizable, and beer is cheap and flows freely everywhere… mmmmm. 

In addition, I’ve had a revelation that might further explain my ease of spirit: I’m half Hungarian!

It could certainly be argued that that is the case. Here’s why. My father’s side of the family is all from Slovakia. His mother’s side came to America from Košice, Slovakia. His father’s family roots are in Bratislava – the current capital of Slovakia. These facts I’ve known all my life (although I don’t know exactly when or who emigrated to the USA).

What I’ve come to realize in the short time we’ve been here in Budapest, is that present day Slovakia was part of the fabled Austro-Hungarian empire until World War I. Indeed, Hungary used to be much much larger – at least triple its current size. Only after being on the losing side in World War I, did Hungary – and the neighboring nations – take on their current borders. See the maps below.

Even today, both Košice and Bratislava are barely across the northern border of present day Hungary. Without a doubt, those lands were part of Hungary for centuries prior. Thus it would be accurate to say that I – Kortan – am Hungarian. I’m home!

The old photos above show me with the Kosice relations during visits in 1964 and 1970. With them, I will further explore this line of thought – and lineage – in a few weeks. I’ve been in contact (on Facebook) with the remaining relatives that my family is aware of who still live in Košice. On July 9 to 15, we will be there to visit. Even better, my brother Damien, sister Tina, and mom Diane have decided to fly over from America and join us for a couple weeks spanning Budapest, Košice, and Krakow, Poland – our following destination.

I look forward to finding out more about my Hungarian/Slovak heritage from folks who are ‘more attached’ to it. One thing we’ve learned on our numerous Budapest walking tours and museum visits is that modern Hungarian history began in the year 896. And believe me, these people know EVERYTHING that has happened here ever since. I gotta believe the Košice relatives will have ancestral knowledge beyond my ‘Americanized’ awareness. 

Unfortunately, from what I know, our USA family has lost all touch with the Bratislava relatives (those with the Kortan family name). But maybe the Košice clan can provide some info in that regard. And either way I can always follow up with a future Eastern Europe visit to Bratislava. It’s right up the Danube from Budapest – and they have great beer there! It’s home.

As always, be thankful and generous, happy trails & more beer.

Life is NOW!

Thanks for reading, “A revelation in Budapest.”

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